No photograph that is displayed and posted on this blog may be reproduced, copied, stored, manipulated or used in whole or in part of a derivative work without the prior written permission of the Copyright (c) Owner & Photographer: Trevor David Betts BA (Hons). All rights reserved.


If you want to use any of my photographs displayed upon this blog, for inclusion in an essay, presentation, talk, or for posting on your blog or web site. Or for use in any other way or means. Then it would be very much appreciated if you could contact me first (as a matter of courtesy and decency) to seek my permission to use any of my photographs. Failure to do so is breach of my copyright and rights.

Saturday, 8 August 2009


As well as checking your equipment before venturing out on a photographic shoot. It would be good practice to perhaps also include a risk assessment at the same time, which could read as follows:

  1. Location, where, how to get there (route plan), time to get there, time of and length of shoot. Special considerations for example if by the sea, tide tables and times, weather forecast etc.
  2. Any history and reputation especially if it is an urban location, if in doubt stay away and don't take photographs at this location.
  3. Time of photography during daylight, dusk or after sunset.
  4. Equipment needed including extra or specialist items for example if shooting at night take a small torch, change for car parking, mobile phone etc. It might be also advisable to ask a friend to accompany you, to keep an eye on your back and for company as well.
  5. Do prior research on location, subject and anything else that is relevant. Remember the 7 P's: Perfect Prior Planning Prevents Piss Poor Performance, and Kiss: Keep It Simple Stupid.
  6. Always let someone know where you are going and give an estimated time of return, especially if you are a young or female photographer, and doing a night-time shoot.
  7. After dusk always know the environment around you, keep one eye open for potential trouble. I have found the best time to do urban city centre after dusk photography is when the clocks go back say from late October to late January before it gets too cold for productive photography. You can do photography between the hours of 4 to 8pm before all the anti-social elements and drunkards venture out. Just dress accordingly and wrap up well. Not only that, at this time of year the light is cleaner and crisper.
  8. Be aware of your rights, do not trespass on private property, obstruct the highway with your camera equipment and tripod. Please see relevant web site addresses for more detailed information on this issue.
  9. Do not take photographs of banks, prisons, military installations, marinas, and government buildings. I have included marinas because I was once accosted by a boat owner who thought I was an international boat thief taking photos for to steal to order (I ask you). Mind you I have no doubt that this does happen.
  10. Be wary of shopping centres, as well if in doubt get written permission first. Most of these are on private property (including the pavement and area outside and surrounding the building).
  11. There are many web sites where you can perhaps download a copy of "Photographer's Rights" in a pdf document. I suggest that you carry a copy in your camera bag or pocket for reference. It would be also advisable to carry an ID type card and any business cards with you.
  12. If you are a student let your course tutors know your plans and where you will be photographing.
  13. Be responsible, obey any laws or restrictions and be polite. Above all enjoy your photography.
  14. Also if you promise to send or give someone a print, then please make sure you keep your promise (photographers who don't, give other photographers a bad name).
  15. Do you have permission, a permit or license to photograph at specific locations? This can include certain species of flowers or plants and animals. Contact the relevant organisation well in advance to apply for permission, a permit or license.
All of this is common sense really. Hindsight is a wonderful thing but good prior research will avoid a lot of problems in the long term. This is just a general guide, there are obviously many other issues and items that you could include. I hope this is of some use to you.

Useful web sites:
In relation to Photographers Rights.

No comments:

Post a Comment



To my Photo Blog,

All my monochrome photography is darkroom produced. This portfolio consists of photographs from several of my projects, assignments, personal and course related work. Some of these monochrome photographic prints are then selectively toned.

Take a look at the slide show, or the popular posts. Click onto some of the many excellent blogs that I have listed in my blog roll. I welcome constructive feedback (post a comment).

Click onto the links in some of my posts which will then take you to the relevant website link where you will be able to find out more about that location, charity or organisation etc featured in the post and which is relevant to that specific image.

Also please click onto my links. Join my blog and my Google + followers. If you would like to know more about any particular photograph or project then please send me an email. My email address is at the foot of this page.

Also from time to time I will post videos that are of interest to me, mainly from my military background.

Yours sincerely

Trevor David Betts BA (Hons)




Top Blogs



BlogFlux Tools

Blogorama - The Blog Directory











All the photographs featured on this blog spot were taken on Canon analog 35mm SLR cameras which included: Canon A1, Canon AE1 (non-programme) and Canon T90. The Canon A1 was rendered useless after prolonged exposure to salt spray residue, and the AE1 suffered a malfunction, and one of my T90s just packed up on me during a photographic shoot.

Most of my camera equipment was initially purchased brand new, then as the years have past I have purchased second-hand equipment. But the vast majority of equipment I currently possess is well over twenty years old.

Canon FD lenses used were: 28, and 35mm wide angle, 50mm standard, 35-105mm short telephoto zoom and a 70-210mm large telephoto zoom lenses. Also used was a loaned Mamiya 645 with 50 and 80mm lenses. My favourite combination is a T90 fitted with the 35-105mm lens with an Hoya orange filter. I use Hoya orange, red, neutral density, and skylight filters. Hoya and Canon lens hoods. A Canon remote cable. I have used a great Metz 45 CT-4 flashgun for many years. I used this for the bounced and fill-in flash for some of the documentary and portraiture work.

Studio flash used was Courtenay brolly flash (just two heads fitted with soft boxes) at Hull Community Artworks studio (sadly this excellent local arts facility closed in 2001). Billingham and Tamrac camera bags (the Billingham is a old model that I have had for years - wonderful bags). The Tamrac one is a medium sized back pack type bag. Slik Black Diamond 88, and 500 DX Pro tripods. A Cullmann touring set (which consists of a light tripod, ball and swivel head, all-purpose clamp, suction cap, and a ground spike). I presently have three Canon T90 and one A1 SLR cameras.

Film used was mainly 35mm (with some 120mm). Ilford Delta monochrome negative print film, 100 asa (a few rolls of 400 asa as well). Ilford HP5 and FP4 (400 and 125 asa respectively). Fuji Neopan 400 asa. Various Fuji colour film. Photographic chemicals: Ilford ID-11 and Microphen film developers. Agfa Rodinal fine grain film developer, and Ilford Hypam fixer.

Photographic paper: Ilford Multigrade IV VC paper, Fibre based VC paper including warm and cool tone. Kentmere Velvet Stipple and Art Document papers. Kodak selenium toner. Barclay and Fotospeed sepia toners, and Colorvir blue toner. Durst M60 and Meopta 5 enlargers fitted with 50 and 80mm Schneider lenses. Kenro negative sheets and Jessops negative folders.

Most of my photography involves the use of the camera being securely mounted onto the tripod, with the shutter set to the 10 second delay. I bracket my exposures (relying on the excellent Canon in-camera meter). My aperture settings are usually between F5.6 and F22. In the vast majority of cases the very first exposure I take is usually the correctly exposed one.

Finished photographic prints (spotted if needed). At the 10 x 8 inch size are then scanned on an Epsom 1660 photo perfection scanner using Adope Photoshop CS2 at the 5.5 x 3.5 inch image or canvas size, 150 dpi and at the 750 x 550 pixels size, and saved as for the web. The only thing that is manipulated is the brightness balance and contrast levels.


"It is the soldier, not the minister, who has given us freedom of religion.

It is the soldier, not the lawyer, who has given us the right to fair protest.

It is the soldier, not the politician, who has given us freedom of speech.

It is the soldier, whose coffin is draped by the flag, who allows the protester to burn the flag."

From: "Fighting for Queen and Country,
by Nigel 'Spud' Ely. Blake Publishing London, 2007.